The late night grind | logo mania
Daniel Day (born August 8, 1944), known as Dapper Dan, is an American fashion designer and haberdasher from Harlem, New York. His influential store, Dapper Dan’s Boutique, operated from 1982–92 and is most associated with introducing high fashion to the hip hop world, with his clients over the years including Eric B. & Rakim, Salt-N-Pepa, LL Cool J, and Jay-Z. In 2017, he launched a fashion line with Gucci, with which he opened a second store and atelier, Dapper Dan’s of Harlem, in 2018.
Dan originally planned to be a clothing wholesaler but soon faced prejudice as he ventured out. He struggled to buy the textiles and furs he needed, as most companies refused to do business with him because of his race or location. Instead of purchasing outfits to sell, he began teaching himself as much as he could about the industry so he could create his own designs from scratch. Dapper Dan’s brash knockoffs used bootlegged fabrics he designed himself after teaching himself textile printing. Notably, he invented a new process for screen printing onto leather, and would later also design jewelry and car interiors for luxury automobiles.
The opening of his store in the early 1980s coincided with the crack cocaine epidemic and the rise of hip-hop music, both of which boosted his clientele. Dan’s trademark was his bold usage of logos from high-end luxury brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Fendi.
Though his clothing was often referred to as streetwear, Day’s early clients in the 1980s were inspired significantly by the fashion flamboyance of Rat Pack icons like Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. His main clientele were “hustlers and street people”— including drug kingpin Alpo Martinez — some of whom even requested bullet-proof parkas and hats.
Day ventured into hip hop fashion in 1985, when he first styled LL Cool J, and Day has since been associated with hip-hop royalty. Eric B. & Rakim who wore Dapper Dan’s designs on the cover of their iconic albums Paid in Full (1987) and Follow The Leader (1988). He also created looks for The Fat Boys, Salt-N-Pepa, KRS-One, Bobby Brown, Jam Master Jay and Big Daddy Kane, as well as sports stars such as boxers Mike Tyson and Floyd Mayweather, and athlete Diane Dixon.hg
Day’s illegal use of logos in his custom-made designs led to counterfeiting raids and litigation, and ultimately the demise of his first store. In 1988, Tyson got into a brawl with Mitch Green outside his store, which put Dapper Dan’s in the media spotlight for the first time. After Tyson was photographed wearing a “knock off” Fendi jacket from Dapper Dan — which was referred to as “an all-night clothing store that caters to performers” in The New York Times — interest in the store eventually brought his usage of European luxury fashion logos to the attention of the European luxury companies. In 1992, after legal action by Fendi and then-U.S. Attorney Sonia Sotomayor, Dapper Dan’s was shut down for good. He was shunned by the mainstream fashion world for decades, though he continued to work “underground” as a designer. He began outfitting undefeated boxer Floyd Mayweather in 1999.
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